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The Benefits of PDOs and PGIs for the European Cheese Industry

Europe’s cheese scene isn’t just producing more—it’s protecting heritage, shaping tourism, and telling stories with every wheel. In 2024, the EU reached a record 10.85 million tonnes of cheese, made from roughly 150 million tonnes of raw milk.¹⁻² Behind the numbers is a patchwork of landscapes, climates, and cultures that influence every flavor and texture, appealing to curious, discerning consumers.

PDOs and PGIs: Protecting Tradition and Boosting Tourism

Cheese writer and educator Patrick McGuigan, advisor to the ‘More Than Only Food & Drink’ campaign, explains:

“EU quality schemes, such as Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) and Protected Geographical Indication (PGI), play an important role, not just in preserving traditions, but also in putting regions on the global food map. In the case of cheese, this is becoming a significant tourism driver.”

Cheese tourism is growing. A 2025 Italian survey found that 32.7% of Italian travelers participated in at least one cheese-related experience in the past three years—a 7.3% increase since 2021. ³ While still newer than wine tourism, this trend helps support rural communities and maintain traditional practices.

Drawing on his global conversations with top cheesemakers, McGuigan points to terroir and climate shifts as key drivers of texture and taste.

“There are hundreds of fascinating backstories to artisanal cheeses throughout Europe, as farmers and cheesemakers struggled to find methods to make a livelihood in their often-difficult surroundings. Many of these settings are dramatic and scenic, making them ideal for tourists looking to venture off the beaten track.”

PDOs Spotlight Hidden Gems

PDO status is putting lesser-known cheeses on the map.

  • Malta – Ġbejna tan-nagħaġ PDO: The first Maltese product to gain PDO protection, made from sheep’s milk with at least 55% of the ewe’s feed cultivated locally. The PDO reinstated lamb rennet, ensuring authenticity.

“Even with my knowledge of cheese, I was unaware that Malta had a cheese tradition so it’s great to see the country added to the map with this PDO. It also makes me curious about other Maltese cheeses and hopeful that there will be more PGIs and PDOs to follow Ġbejna tan-nagħaġ PDO,” says McGuigan.

  • Sweden – Kaffeost PDO: A northern specialty, baked and sometimes smoked, served in hot coffee.

“Artisanal Swedish cheese almost vanished after the Second World War, and many traditions and practices were nearly lost forever. Thankfully, this appears to be changing with Wrångebäcksost PDO, the first Nordic cheese to receive the status, and Kaffeost PDO the most recent accreditation. Kaffeost PDO is very distinct in flavour, some is made with reindeer milk, and the way it is served with coffee is very unique to north Sweden. The PDO was supported by a collective of dairies who saw the opportunity of protecting its heritage and sharing this long-held cultural custom with a world that has a growing interest in cheese,” adds McGuigan.


PGIs Showcase Regional Diversity

Protected Geographical Indications highlight local variations and innovation:

  • France – Pérail PGI: Historically made from leftover Roquefort milk, this cheese is now a fully protected artisanal product.
  • Spain – Queso de Burgos PGI: Combines cow and ewe milk during winter shortages, showing adaptability while preserving tradition.

“Pérail PGI, produced in the heart of the Grands Causses of France, has been made for centuries using traditional techniques. Historically, it would have been made from milk leftover from the production of Roquefort PDO and eaten by the farmer’s family at the end of the lactation cycle. It wasn’t until the 1980s that several cheesemakers began making a living from producing Pérail itself. After 40 years, it’s reassuring that a cheese that began as a modest supper now has a protected status. “

“Queso de Burgos PGI illustrates that there is much more breadth and depth to Spanish cheese than Queso Manchego PDO. The region of Castile and León, where it is produced, makes a number of protected cheeses and is also known for blending milks from different species. Mixing stems from necessity as it’s difficult to milk ewes during winter, thus these lower quantities would be compensated by combining with cow’s milk,” says McGuigan.

Quality and Recognition

Protected status not only preserves tradition but also guarantees quality. In 2024, dozens of EU cheeses were honored at the Great Taste Awards, including:

  • Paški sir PDO – Croatia
  • Asiago PDO – Italy
  • Queso Castellano PGI – Spain

“Having so many diverse EU cheeses honoured in the awards shows that it isn’t just the big hitters that deserve attention but that there are many other cheeses waiting to be discovered,” concludes McGuigan.

PDOs and PGIs are more than labels—they’re tools for preserving heritage, promoting tourism, and ensuring that each cheese tells a story worth savoring.


References

  1. European Commission. Milk and dairy products.
  2. European Dairy Association. Annual Report 2024/2025
  3. Italia mon amour. Cheese Tourism: when cheese becomes a trend.
  4. European Commission. Ġbejna tan-nagħaġ first Maltese food to be registered with a Geographical Indication, with the Protected Designation of Origin label.
  5. The Daily Reporter. Impact of PDO and PGI status on EU cheese industry

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