Preserving the Diversity Behind France’s Iconic Cheeses

Preserving the Diversity Behind France’s Iconic Cheeses

Some of France’s iconic soft cheeses—think Camembert and Brie—are facing a quiet crisis, one that’s less about cows and more about microbes. Experts warn that the microbial diversity that gives these cheeses their signature textures, aromas, and flavors is under threat. In short: the bacteria behind your favorite wedges are dwindling.

Here’s the science in a nutshell. Most cheeses start with the same cast of characters: milk, salt, rennet, and bacteria. Those tiny microorganisms are the unsung heroes shaping flavor, color, and texture. Back in 1897, biochemists isolated Penicillium candidum, the mold that turned the once gray-and-orange Camembert into the pristine white wheels we know today. Since then, cheesemakers have leaned heavily on this single strain, mostly for looks.

“It’s very important to preserve diversity, even in microorganisms, and in particular in those we use for making food,” says Jeanne Ropars, a research scientist at the French National Center for Scientific Research. The problem? Relying on one bacteria strain is a recipe for vulnerability. Just as the Irish potato famine proved, putting all your eggs—or spores—in one basket can be disastrous.

Penicillium candidum is asexual, meaning mutations accumulate unchecked. When its genetic diversity declines, fewer spores form during the ripening process, which directly impacts cheeses like Camembert. Without action, this beloved strain could become impossible to source, challenging the century-old rules of Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) cheeses.

But don’t panic yet. The future of French cheese isn’t extinction—it’s adaptation. Other fungi, like Penicillium biforme, naturally present in raw milk, offer a vibrant palette for cheesemakers willing to embrace variety. Historically, bries weren’t always stark white—they leaned bluish before the 1950s, thanks to P. biforme. Camemberts once carried orange hues, too. Modern cheesemaking may just be returning to its colorful roots, and consumers may need to adjust their expectations.

Cheesemakers are already experimenting with local strains, and natural rind cheeses show that microbial diversity hasn’t disappeared—it’s just less uniform. One recent discovery? A new population of P. roqueforti in Le Bleu de Termignon, a rare cheese produced by only five farmers in the French Alps. While it’s not a new species, it’s a reminder that the fungi in cheeses still hold surprises—and that more discoveries could help safeguard diversity for future generations.

So yes, some French cheeses are at risk—but not gone. What’s happening is a shift toward a more sustainable, resilient system, where cheesemakers adapt, innovate, and celebrate the colorful, aromatic diversity microbes bring to the table. In other words: your cheese plate might just get more interesting.

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Sources:

Dairy Reporter Bleu de Termignon can help avert French cheese’s ‘extinction’ crisis

Culture Cheese Magazine Why Certain French Cheeses May Be Facing Extinction Why Certain French Cheeses Are Facing Extinction

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