Famous Cheese Imposters

Famous Cheese Imposters

There are basically two flavors of “fake” cheese out there. One type is unapologetically fake—often due to differing regulations across countries. Parmesan is the poster child here. In the European Union, Parmigiano Reggiano has Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status, meaning only cheese made in certain regions of Italy using specific methods can carry the name. Outside the EU? Not so much. In the U.S., while Parmigiano Reggiano is protected, “parmesan” is fair game—anyone can slap it on a package, regardless of how much it tastes like the real thing.

Then there’s the more insidious type of fakery: cheese masquerading as the real deal to deliberately deceive. Yes, we’re still talking parmesan. According to the Parmigiano Reggiano Cheese Consortium, the global fake parmesan market clocks in at around $2 billion annually, nearly rivaling the $2.35 billion authentic market. That’s not just money—it’s reputation on the line. One bite of a cheap impostor and many curious first-timers might never return.

To combat this, the Consortium is leaning on technology. Partnering with p-Chip Corporation and Kaasmerk Matec, they’ve developed an edible microchip smaller than a grain of salt. Embedded in authentic Parmigiano Reggiano, it allows wholesalers, retailers, and consumers to verify the cheese’s legitimacy. When buying, don’t get fooled by fancy packaging: look for “Parmigiano Reggiano,” “Made in Italy,” and the PDO stamp. But even then, caution is key—fake labels are easier to produce than fake cheese.

Fake parmesan scandals aren’t just theoretical. In 2015, Castle Cheese Inc. of Slippery Rock faced federal charges after a fired manager exposed that sawdust and fillers were sneaked into their parmesan and Romano. The company’s president, Michelle Myrter, was fined $1 million, placed on probation, and the business eventually went bankrupt.

It’s not just parmesan under attack. Feta has PDO protection in the EU, but Danish producers were labeling their own cheeses as feta until a 2022 court ruling sided with Greece. In the U.S., “feta” can mean anything, so look for “Made in Greece” and PDO labeling for authenticity.

Buffalo mozzarella has PDO protection too, but even Italian producers have been caught cutting corners. In 2014, a factory near Caserta was raided for using cheaper cow’s milk instead of buffalo milk—and some of it wasn’t even Italian. Spain has also been caught marketing “Buffalo Mozzarella” made with cow’s milk.

Switzerland’s Emmentaler faces a different challenge. Protected by the AOP system, it’s recognized in a few countries but not in the U.S., where “Swiss cheese” can be almost anything. Swiss cheesemakers estimate that roughly 10% of Emmentaler sold as genuine is fake. Their clever solution? Introduce a unique bacteria into authentic cheese that can be lab-tested, though whether fake-makers have found a workaround is anyone’s guess.

Even kosher labeling hasn’t escaped fakery. In 2017, Creation Foods Company in Ontario was fined C$25,000 for selling non-kosher mozzarella and cheddar to Jewish youth camps.

Of course, there’s one group that’s happy to sell fake cheese without legal trouble: The Fake Food Display Company. They offer fake brie, manchego, gouda, and even parmesan—for displays and movie props.

Cheese is serious business. It’s also the most stolen food item in stores, according to the Center for Retail Research, with about 4% disappearing from shelves. Presumably, cheese thieves have a discerning palate for authenticity.

---